Tiling News

The latest news for tilers and the tiling industry


November 23, 2006

Getting Grout Out Of Traventine

Filed under: Tile care — admin2 @ 5:20 pm

Was in Topps today when overheard woman in tears because ’tiler’ had not sealed traventine tiles & grouted them. She was upset as her tiles were now full of white grout (in holes). Yours truly stepped in with a business card explaining I’d have a look at them for her & see if I could clean & then seal them.

It was only afterwards that I thought “What (if anything) will get the grout out of the tiles? Is HD Tile & Grout Cleaner OK? Then seal with Sealers Gold?

Cheers, Martyn 

 

Are the holes not meant to be filled?? i thought they were so as to give contrast between tile and grout, then seal again.

Otherwise all types of crap will get into holes and look terrible.

Or am i just missinfomed??????? 

Simon 

 

 

And inexperienced with natural stones 

 

 

If you don’t fill the holes with grout they only get filled up with sh*t (can I still say that now ) and extremely difficult to clean. A better colour grout such as limestone or sandstone would have looked far better than white! 

 

yep white and travertine sounds like disaster, as toots, i always use limestone. 

 

Not as inexperienced as i thought then 

 

I think it’s a pointless exercise really buying travertine and then filling it with grout????????.

Kev 

 

With travertine you cannot avoid getting grout in the holes. It is better to use a coloured grout as Mike has said. You can get travertine already filled.

Steve. 

 

The grout also strengthens the tile…

Jase 

 

So what’s the point 

 

Way back at the top of this Martyn asked a question, what can get the grout out?

The answer, I’m afraid is you can’t, not successfuly anyway, grout residue off the surface is another issue, but actual grout that has gone into the holes in the tiles is no different to the grout in the joints, in fact, it would be easier to remove the joints (as at least you could get a FEIN in them) than the holes.

What is the point of filling them? - well 1. on a small tile, it is virtually impossible not to and 2. in many situations (Shower, splash back, floor etc) it would be completely impractical to be left un-filled as others have said, it would only fill up with muck anyway. so most folk go for a similar coloured grout and deliberately fill them.

The only other choice is to buy pre-filled stone.

Is trav ever left unfilled? - yes of course, in areas such as lobbies, hallways etc on the walls, and especially with larger format tiles, this then becomes a different process with the joints being carefully ‘pointed’ as opposed to grouted in the traditonal way - something traditional stone masons are better suited to than tilers (simply because thay have worked that way with large slab stone for centuries)

Martyn, you can clean them (if they need cleaning) just use some heavy duty and a bit of poultice - all you will really do is maybe dislodge any surface particles, may improve the look. then you could seal with Sealers choice as you say, or, if you notice the tile and more importantly the grout darkening significantly when wet, and the customer prefers this look (in other words the wetting action ‘tones down’ the shade of the grout making it stand out less) then consider sealing with Enrich n Seal - this could be the best solution - its a fantastic sealer and it would lock in the wet look.

If this seems like an option you MUST TEST on an inconspicuous area - or a spare tile, and get the customer’s absolute acceptence as once it is in it is there for life and you won’t get it out - given she hates it as it is though………

make sure the tiling is allowed to dry thouroughly after any cleaning, before applying EnS and remeber how important it is to remove the surplus BEFORE it dries. Lastly, make sure she keeps it dry for at least 48 hours after sealing

best of luck

Ian 

 

I am genuinly not trying to be awkward here but what is the point of buying small travertine tiles with holes in them justto fill them up with a grout of your choice? A complete waste of time and money in my opinion!!!  

——————– 

Bibi4now

Kev 

 

the point is, personal taste. There are three choices: 

  • Pre-filled - with cement or resin at the factory, usually on the slightly smoother, less ‘holey’ types, has more uniform and less rustic appearance 

  • Left unfilled- in the few circumstances I explained - so it looks natural and ‘interesting’ but has to be in a situation where the only likely dirt is airborne dust 

  • Filled with grout - this is a valid and popular look, as with some very rustic terracotta, the material looks nice, the rugged nature has a visual appeal and it can be (and has been for centuries) a practical flooring/cladding material in a variety of circumstances but the holes need to be filled so you see a lot of grout (mortar in the old days) - it’s all part of the look 


I just sealed a 150 m2 floor of very large format travertine with some big holes and on other tiles the entire tile was covered with a mass of tiny holes - the tile is approx 50% grout - but mixed in with all the others it looks great - the overall floor looks absolutely fantastic and the customer is delighted

It is just about choice - not everyone likes it just as not everyone likes terracotta, in Germany and Scandinavia for example, the opposite end of the spectrum is favoured - extremely smooth surfaces, very straight lines etc variety is the spice of life as they say 

Finally an answer that makes sense!!! Thank you Ian!

Tile Care 


November 13, 2006

Quarry Renovation

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 6:00 pm

Thanks to the Natural Stone course I may have my first tile cleaning job, so thanks to all the PITT and Aquamix guys for such a great and informative 2 days. smile.gif

The job I have looked at is 15m2 of quarry, half of which is 100 years old and the other half reclaimed and laid a year ago, but very similar. However, some of the reclaimed tiles have a shine to them, while the original tiles have virtually none. The customer is looking to get a good match across the two, and I recommended;
1. a clean with Phosporic Acid Cleaner
2. a very deep scrub with Heavy Duty Tile Cleaner mixed with Poultice to get some stubborn marks out of the grout
3. Sealers Choice 15 applied - no shine, he likes it looking original and wants the reclaimed tiles to match the original floor.

My question is; could this shine on the reclaimed quarry tiles be in any way due to the firing process, or will it be old polish that I can remove with Sealer and Adhesive remover? I’ll do a test area before any work is undertaken, but I’d like to know if there is any chance the tiles are ‘naturally’ shiny, so I can forewarn the customer.

Not sure if there is an easy answer to this, but any opinions are gratefully received. And obviously I am using all Aquamix products.

Tile Forums

Tile and Tiling Forums

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 4:02 pm

Tile Forums www.tileforums.com

Tile forums

Tiling Course Company

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 3:11 pm

PITT Ltd 

Runs practical wall and floor tiling training courses for the DIY and expert. Course details and contact.
www.professional-itt.com

Building Adhesives (BAL) run tiling courses for new and existing Tilers

www.building-adhesives.com/bal/training.asp

Tiling Course

Tile adds

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 2:49 pm

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Trades-Direct

The Truth About Acids

Filed under: Tile care — admin2 @ 1:46 pm

How and when to use acid cleaners.

Eliminate Grout Haze with Aqua Mix

What is Grout Haze?

Grout haze or bloom is the fine film of grout often left behind on the tile surface after grouting. The haze occurs as a result of the washing-off process where traces of the grout residue suspended in the washing–off water are not completely removed. Over the years there have been many dubious ways of dealing with this problem, I wish I had got a Pound for every time I heard a Tiler tell a customer “It’ll dry with a slight grey colour but don’t worry, leave it a day or so and then just dust it off”. The only thing this strategy achieves is to give the Tiler plenty of time to skip town with his cheque – never to be heard from again! Those with a slightly more conscientious approach to their work, typically return a couple of days later with the strongest brick acid they can get their hands on – often creating more problems than they solve.

The Truth about Acids

Before I go on I think it appropriate to discuss the use of strong acid cleaners in relation to grout haze or film. One of the main constituents of cement is calcium carbonate, typically from limestone (albeit in an altered form). Acids are used, as they will react with the calcium, breaking it down, effectively dissolving the cement in the grout.

Acid cleaners designed for brick cleaning are usually based on strong acids such as hydrochloric acid. These are designed to work on heavy deposits of cement such as lumps of dried mortar. Of course, if they can do that they will obviously break down the thin film of grout haze very easily. BUT! They will not stop there. Strong acid cleaners will go on working causing permanent damage to the grout joint. This can put large holes in the joint, turn it white and deposit even more grout haze on the tile surface.

For the safe removal of dried grout haze it is much better to use a cleaner based on the milder, phosphoric acid (phosphoric acid is the number 4 ingredient in the worlds most popular, carbonated drink!). The phosphoric Acid Cleaner works on very thin films of grout residue and then it is spent. In other words it will stop working long before it causes irreparable damage to the joint.

Bear in mind however:

• All acids can etch (or lighten) cement based grout joints.
• Do not use on acid sensitive surfaces such as marble or limestone

The truth is, there need not be a problem in the first place.

Prevention is Better than Cure

Racing to get the job done, only to have to return days later for an acid wash seems ridiculous when, with a little extra time and care during the washing –off process, the whole problem of grout haze can be prevented.

Here is how to avoid the formation of grout haze:

1. Remove as much of the surplus grout as possible using a squeegee.
2. After each sweep of the arm with the sponge, turn it over to a clean face. Then rinse it out thoroughly. For best results use a wash boy.
3. Change the rinse water regularly.
4. Optional (but beneficial!) During the final rinse, add a little Aqua Mix Grout Haze Clean-Up* to the washing–off water. Grout Haze Clean-Up is designed to prevent cement and latex from bonding to the tile surface. Once again, changing the rinse water frequently. Grout Haze Clean-Up is especially helpful in preventing the formation of grout haze when using modern polymer modified grouts on porcelain tiles.

* - Do not use on acid sensitive surfaces such as marble or limestone

For existing situations or where the above procedure has not been adopted and a grout haze is present:

Grout Haze removal – Within 10 days of Grouting

Although cement based grout may harden within 24 hours, it can take between 5 and 10 days for it to reach a full cure. If acids, even the safer phosphoric acids are used during this period they can cause irreparable damage to the joint.

Instead try using Aqua Mix Grout Haze Clean-Up NEAT:

1. Apply Grout Haze Clean-Up directly to the affected area.
2. Allow it to sit for 3 to 5 minutes, longer if necessary.
3. Agitate with a scrub brush or white nylon pad.
4. Mop up the dirty solution and rinse well with clean water

Grout Haze Removal – For Grout that is Older than 10 Days

1. Sweep or vacuum the surface
2. Pre-wet the surface with water
3. Mix 1 part Aqua Mix Phosphoric Acid Cleaner to 5 parts water. Stronger solution may be used if necessary
4. Apply the solution to a manageable area, do not allow the solution to dry out
5. Allow to dwell for 1 to 2 minutes
6. Agitate with a scrub brush or white nylon pad
7. Mop up dirty solution
8. Rinse thoroughly with clean water
9. Repeat if necessary

Grout Haze Removal – Stubborn or Problem Grouts

For stubborn grout haze mix Aqua Mix Poultice powder into a wet slurry with Grout Haze Clean-Up (less than 10 days) or with Phosphoric Acid Cleaner and water (after 10 days).

Poultice is a fine, mildly abrasive and highly absorbent clay powder that can help boost the cleaning performance in 3 ways:
1. It acts as a safe, non-scratching scouring powder
2. It absorbs the ‘dirt’ helping to carry it away in the rinsing water
3. It helps to ‘deliver’ the cleaning solution into small pores, crevices etc.

Quick Product Selector
Situation: Aqua Mix Problem Solver

During Washing-Off Process:Grout Haze Clean-Up added to washing water
Grout haze less than 10 days old, Normal: Grout Haze Clean-Up used neat
Grout haze less than 10 days old,Stubborn: as above + Add Poultice
Grout haze over 10 days old, Normal: Phosphoric Acid Cleaner
Grout haze over 10 days old, Stubborn: as above + Add Poultice

The information here is intended as a guide only. For detailed information always read the bottle labels and always test first on a small inconspicuous area to determine desired results.
Trades-direct

Grout Film On My Kitchen Floor

Filed under: Tile care — admin2 @ 1:42 pm
Just had a tiler do a job in the kitchen. There seems to be a haze on the natural stone surface.

Is there anything I can do to get rid of this?

 

Ask Ian

no need to be quite so cynical Scissors ohmy.gif - sometimes it is easier to talk about a problem than answer it succinctly on a post, especially when there are several things to consider - but I will have a go anyway.

Rocky, Steve is right, you have a grout haze problem, and Toots has answered you well. Sometimes it is also referred to as grout bloom, and as Toots says, it is a very fine residue or film of grout, left on the tile surface after the grout washing-off process.

So how to get rid of it, well first thing is that you say it is a stone floor, but you don’t say what type of grout you used (cement-based, polymer modified?) Neither did you say what type of stone it is. This is VERY important, why? - because it can affect the ultimate solution. Lastly, you did not say when the job was completed - in other words how old is the grout haze?

Grout haze is the thinnest of films of grout, well not actually ‘grout’ as grout is a mixture (usually) of cement, fine sand and some polymers or plasticisers-like additives (even the non-polymer-modified has some, just not as much). The haze is formed when the dissolved parts of the grout are left in suspension on the tile/stone surface after washing. There will be little or no sand left there as this does not dissolve, thus it will have been more easily picked up during the wash off process. Once dry, the water has obviously gone so what you are left with on the surface is fine cement with a varying amount of additive(depending on what type of grout you used). As Toots also pointed out; cement has a progressive cure, getting harder over a a period of time, so for example it will be much more likely that you could remove a moderate, cement haze after 24 hours with a white pad and maybe some water, than if you were to leave it for 5 to 10 days. So speed is of the essence here.

The usual remedy for this problem is to use an acid-based cleaner because we need to break down the cement. Cement is basically a modified form of calcium carbonate (any chemists among you may give a more detailed/chemically accurate explanation but this is sufficient to understand the process we need to use) - the only way we can break this down (assuming it has had a few days to reach a certain level of cure, so as to render water and a white pad ineffective) is to attack (react with/dissolve) the calcium component in the cement and for that we need an acid.

BUT WAIT a moment! - let us now consider the stone:

Some stones are acid sensitive, if they are then we have to think again - we cannot use an acid on any stone that is made up of or contains calcium carbonate as the acid will dissolve/etch that stone as eagerly as it does the haze.

So, first of all, check if your stone is acid-sensitive, if you do not know then ask your supplier what it is, the following is a list of popular stone that fall into that category, it is by no-means exhaustive so if in doubt , ask:

  • Marble (polished or tumbled)
  • Limestone
  • travertine
  • terrazzo

One other point, the more highly polished the stone, the worse the etching effect of an acid will be.

If you find that you have an acid sensitive stone, then please post again and we will go down another route.

OK, assuming it IS safe to use an acid, we need to find the mildest, safest one we can get our hands on - why? - well because we want to destroy the thin film of haze, without doing any lasting damage to the actual grout in the joint - which at the end of the day will react EXACTLY THE SAME as the haze. It is for this reason that most companies use the Mild PHOSPHORIC ACID as a basis for grout haze removal products (Phos acid for short or even PA - my fingers are aching now!). PA is a mild acid (mild enough to be the 4th major ingredient in a well known American, caramel flavored carbonated drink!) it will work on a very thin film and then it is exhausted, a spent force, and so will do minimal damage to the joint, all though as I said in my article “the truth about acids”, (now in the library section I believe) it will do some damage as ALL ACIDS will etch to some degree - so it is a trade off - we want one that is powerful enough to do maximum damage to the haze whilst being weak enough to do minimal damage to the joint itself.

There are several on the market the best known are HG Extra, Lithofin’s Cement Away and of course our own Phosphoric Acid Cleaner (even handed answer I think?) and they will all do the job detailed above. Provided the grout is more than a few days old, then the worst they should do to the joint itself is a very mild etching, manifested as a slight lightening of the colour, this will be far less noticeable on a standard grey floor grout than on a pigmented one such as a dark charcoal or on popular colours like sandstone. It is sometimes advisable to give the entire floor the same treatment so that the grout is not rendered patchy - but you would also have to be absolutely certain that you are happy with the result, should the colour be affected (TEST AN INCOSPICUOUS AREA FIRST!!!)

One other point, I must stress DO NOT go out and get a brick cleaning acid from the local builders merchant - this is usually based on Hydrochloric acid and it is FAR TOO STRONG and will result in some degree of permanent damage to the joint (there are plenty of tilers out there who would argue and say they have done this for years and never had a problem but they are not always around later-on when the problems arise as a result of their actions weakening the grout).

How do you do it? apply a DILUTE solution of the chosen cleaner, I can only advise on the use of the Aqua Mix one, Phosphoric Acid Cleaner - but they are all pretty similar. Dilute say 5 parts water:1 part PAC to begin with, apply to the floor (making sure you isolate or protect any non acid and non-water safe surfaces). Leave to dwell for a couple of minutes then agitate (scrub) using a white nylon pad or nylon bristle scrubbing brush then mop up the solution. After this RINSE the floor down with clean water to remove any traces of the cleaner, remove the water, and even rub the floor dry with a towel if you like - this again will help remove any last traces. Let it dry thoroughly for a few hours and then re-inspect the floor. Dare I say it? “Repeat if necessary” - the idea is that it is better to use these weak acids several times if need be, than it is to go steaming in with a strong, inappropriate acid and wreak all kinds of irreparable havoc.

The above should work for most ’standard’ cases, if you find out that you have an acid sensitive stone, or that you have a heavily polymer modified grout - post again and I’ll try to offer an alternative solution

Cheers

Ian

Trades-direct

Tiles In Victorian House

Filed under: Tile care — admin2 @ 1:38 pm
What type are they?
Been asked to look at cleaning hall tiles in a large Victorian house. The tiles are those intricate small patterned ones.Geometrics I think theyare known as ???
Any idea if they are just treated as ceramic tiles for cleaning purposes i.e clean with Aqua Mix Heavy Duty Tile & Grout Cleaner
——————————————-
Geometrics are the plain tiles (red, black, buff, brown etc) sometimes whole, sometimes in smaller pieces cut to different geometric shapes.

Encaustic tiles are the same but have patterns in then, made by pouring a liquid clay ’slip’ into etched or carved ‘channels’ in the base tile - a bit like marquetry in woodwork.

That is a very basic explanation

clean the floor first using Heavy Duty Tile and grout cleaner, then look other specific issues and treat them accordingly: Phos Acid for cement, Sealer and Adhesive remover for bitumastic type glue residues etc.

Cheers

Ian

Cheers, Martyn
Geometrics are the plain tiles (red, black, buff, brown etc) sometimes whole, sometimes in smaller pieces cut to different geometric shapes.

Encaustic tiles are the same but have patterns in then, made by pouring a liquid clay ’slip’ into etched or carved ‘channels’ in the base tile - a bit like marquetry in woodwork.

That is a very basic explanation

clean the floor first using Heavy Duty Tile and grout cleaner, then look other specific issues and treat them accordingly: Phos Acid for cement, Sealer and Adhesive remover for bitumastic type glue residues etc.

Cheers

Ian

 

Geometrics are the plain tiles (red, black, buff, brown etc) sometimes whole, sometimes in smaller pieces cut to different geometric shapes.

Encaustic tiles are the same but have patterns in then, made by pouring a liquid clay ’slip’ into etched or carved ‘channels’ in the base tile - a bit like marquetry in woodwork.

That is a very basic explanation

clean the floor first using Heavy Duty Tile and grout cleaner, then look other specific issues and treat them accordingly: Phos Acid for cement, Sealer and Adhesive remover for bitumastic type glue residues etc.

Cheers

Ian

Prevention Is Better Than Cure

Filed under: Tile care — admin2 @ 1:21 pm
Following on from the previous post, thought I would tell you about another product. Yes, it is an Aqua Mix one, but I cannot compare it to any competing brands - as I don’t believe they have anything remotely like it -as I said, unique.

Grout Haze Clean-Up is designed to be added to the clean-up water in the wash-boy (final rinse) it works by preventing the grout haze or bloom from forming on the tile surface.

It is especially effective when using polymer modified grouts on porcelain: the problem here can be that the enhanced adhesion properties that polymers give the grout, mean that the haze can form a strong bond to the surface of the tile. Well Grout Haze Clean-Up works to prevent it from bonding, so when you do that final wash-down the tile looks clean and dries clean.

So why are so few people in the UK using it? - well maybe we have not promoted it properly or enough yet, but maybe it is also because it is new and dare I say it, different?

I remember when (not too long ago) people looked at wash-boys and laughed. Now they are an essential piece of kit. on the other side of the ‘pond’ Grout Haze Clean-Up is now recognised as a time-saving, problem-preventing essential.

So if you would rather be able to leave a floor spotless, the day you grout it, rather than have to come back days later and give it an acid wash (at your expense) risking damage to the joint - then why not give it a go? - As the say, prevention is better than cure! - check it out:

http://www.aquamix.com/for_professionals/p…48561&pgid=9833

Tileforums

New cleaning products

Filed under: Tile care — admin2 @ 1:05 pm
Guys and girls we took on Aquamix for the main benifit its water based and safe to use without nasty smells.
But as normal trades direct like to test all products sold, therefore we received a couple of new products to be launched in January 2007 alond with a few exicting cleaners and off we went to site on Friday to put them to the test.

The floor laid so long ago no one knows its age that was covered in paint, plaster, cement and general dirt forced into the tile surface over more than a hundred years at least was the impossable test for any product, this is how it looked

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Then after a little aquamix touch

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Tileforums

November 10, 2006

Dunlop Adhesives

Filed under: Uncategorized, General — admin2 @ 1:23 am
The Full range is now available from trades direct click here Dunlop range available to the trade and public just call 01782 566166 for a price delivered to your door #
Ready mixed showerproof ceramic wall tile adhesive for the professional user.  

Ultra white finish-no grout discolouration. Easy to use, it mixes and spreads easily. Non-slip means no need for battens. High strength makes it suitable for a wide range of tile types and sizes.

(1 unit = 15 ltr bucket)

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A ready-mixed waterproof adhesive.  

For fixing ceramic or mosaic wall tiles.

For use in kitchens, bathrooms and showers, including communal showers.

Excellent non-slip characteristics.

*flexible

(1 unit = 15Kg bucket)

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A thin- and thick- bed powder based ceramic floor and wall adhesive.  

Suitable for interior and exterior use. For ceramic tiles including vitrified tiles, quarry tiles, mosaics, stone cladding and brick slips. High bond strength. Can be used in showers and swimming pools.

(1 unit = 20Kg bag) ** colour = GREY **

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A thin- and thick- bed powder based ceramic floor and wall adhesive.  

Suitable for interior and exterior use. For ceramic tiles including vitrified tiles, quarry tiles, mosaics, stone cladding and brick slips. High bond strength. Can be used in showers and swimming pools.

(1 unit = 20Kg bag) ** colour = WHITE **

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A rapid-setting thin- and thick- bed powder-based adhesive.  

For ceramic tiles, including vitrified tiles, quarry tiles, mosaics, stone cladding and brick slips. Tiles can be grouted 3hrs after fixing. Interior and exterior use.

(1 unit = 20Kg bag) **colour = GREY**

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A rapid setting pourable thick-bed tile adhesive for large format tiles, fully vitrified tiles including porcelain, stone and terracotta tiles.  

Tiles can be grouted in 3 hours. Waterproof. Can be fixed at 5-25mm thick. Can also be used to level uneven floors.

(1 unit = 20Kg bag) ** colour = GREY **

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A rapid setting pourable thick-bed tile adhesive for large format tiles, fully vitrified tiles including porcelain, stone and terracotta tiles.  

Tiles can be grouted in 3 hours. Waterproof. Can be fixed at 5-25mm thick. Can also be used to level uneven floors.

(1 unit = 20Kg bag) ** colour = WHITE **

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A ready-mixed showerproof adhesive.
For fixing ceramic or mosaic wall tiles.
For use in kitchens, bathrooms and domestic showers.
Excellent non-slip characteristics.  

(1 unit = 15Kg bucket)

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A complete kit to waterproof one domestic shower prior to fixing ceramic tiles.  

Easy and quick to apply. Contains everyting you need - primer, coating and tape. Ensures a watertight barrier prior to tiling. Protects water sensitive backgrounds such as plaster, wall angles, corners pipes and structural fixtures. Suitable for concrete, cement: sand rendering, plaster, plasterboard and timber boards.

(1 unit = 4Kg bucket kit)

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A white two-part epoxy grout. Suitable for areas requiring a hygenic, waterproof and durable finish. Ideal for kitchens, bathrooms and showers (incl power showers), and swimming pools.
Resists food acids, cleaning detergents and swimming pools chemicals. Suitable for wall and floor joints up to 12mm wide. Easy application and clean off.  

(1 unit = 1Kg bucket) ** colour = WHITE **

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A rapid setting flexible 2 part ceramic floor tile and adhesive kit for wooden surfaces.  

Contains all you need- flexible powder adhesive and liquid. Suitable for fixing ceramic, porcelain and fully vitrified tiles. Sets in 3 hours. Ideal for wooden surfaces. Flexible formulation. Water resistant.

(1 unit = 11.55Kg bucket) colour = GREY

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A multi-purpose admix, primer, sealer and dustproofer.

Water-based synthetic liquid polymer for interior and exterior use. Can be used in cement slurry to improve adhesion of mortars to difficult surfaces and provide a waterproof layer.
For use as admixture to improve adhesion, durability, flexibility, water and frost resistance of screeds, rendering and plaster and reduces surface dusting.
Can be used neat to prime vinyl floor tiles, seal sheets and boards to minimise distortion, and provide a dust free surface on concrete floors.

(1 unit = 5Kg bottle)

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A water-based polymer emulsion additive for use with powder-based adhesives and grouts.  

For interior and exterior use. For use where a degree of flexibility or vibration resistance is needed. Increased adhesion strength. Ideal for tiling with fully vitrified tiles or marble. Reduces permeability.

(1 unit = 2.5Kg bottle)

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Highly flexible general purpose sealnat with anti-bacterial properties.  

Protects against harmful bacteria such as E-coli, Listeria, Salmonella and even fungi which creates black mould. Waterproof. Mould and mildew resistant. Ideal for interior and exterior gap filling. Suitable for joint sealing around showers, baths, sinks and worktops.

(1 unit = 310mL cartridge)

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A mix-with-water powder grout for use in ceramic floor and wall tile joints.  

Suitable for interior / exterior. Can be used in tile joints between 2-12mm. Hard wearing finish.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = WHITE **

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A mix-with-water powder grout for use in ceramic floor and wall tile joints.  

Suitable for interior / exterior. Can be used in tile joints between 2-12mm. Hard wearing finish.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = IVORY**

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A mix-with-water powder grout for use in ceramic floor and wall tile joints.

Suitable for interior / exterior. Can be used in tile joints between 2-12mm. Hard wearing finish.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = GREY **

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A mix-with-water powder grout for use in ceramic floor and wall tile joints.

Suitable for interior / exterior. Can be used in tile joints between 2-12mm. Hard wearing finish.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = SANDSTONE **

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mix-with-water powder grout for use in ceramic floor and wall tile joints.  

Suitable for interior / exterior. Can be used in tile joints between 2-12mm. Hard wearing finish.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = CHARCOAL **

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A mix-with-water powder grout for use in ceramic floor and wall tile joints.  

Suitable for interior / exterior. Can be used in tile joints between 2-12mm. Hard wearing finish.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = LIMESTONE **

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A flexible powder grout for use with ceramic, fully vitrified, porcelain and mosaic wall tiles to accomodate limited movement.
Flexible, water resistant formulation. No admix required, simply mix with water. Suitable for interior or exterior use. Can be used in tile joints up to 5mm.

(1 unit= 10Kg bag) colour = WHITE

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A flexible grout for use with ceramic, fully vitrified, porcelain and mosaic floor and wall tiles allowing limited movement.  

Flexible, water resistant formulation. No admix required, mix with water. Ideal for wooden and heated floors. Hard wearing finish. Can be used in tile joints up to 20mm.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = GREY **

Attached Image
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A flexible grout for use with ceramic, fully vitrified, porcelain and mosaic floor and wall tiles allowing limited movement.  

Flexible, water resistant formulation. No admix required, mix with water. Ideal for wooden and heated floors. Hard wearing finish. Can be used in tile joints up to 20mm.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = LIMESTONE **

Attached Image
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A flexible grout for use with ceramic, fully vitrified, porcelain and mosaic floor and wall tiles allowing limited movement.  

Flexible, water resistant formulation. No admix required, mix with water. Ideal for wooden and heated floors. Hard wearing finish. Can be used in tile joints up to 20mm.

(1 unit = 10Kg bag) ** colour = CHARCOAL **

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trades direct

November 7, 2006

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 12:28 am

run Practical Wall and Floor Tiling Courses along with training in related P.I.T.T is ran by an experienced team who you can trust to provide the
www.questonline.co.uk/training_education_centres/professional_independent_training_techniques - 9k - Cached - Similar pages

Education, retraining and job opportunities for EVERYBODY in the Armed Forces

http://www.osg9.com Click here now.... www.mi5careers.gov.uk/surveillance

Training Centre Details:
Professional Independent Training Techniques
Unit 9 IMEX Business Park
Ormonde Street
Fenton
Stoke on Trent
Staffordshire
ST4 3MP
Tel: 01782 341 700
Email: training@professional-itt.com
Web address: http://www.professional-itt.com
Notes:
We are an Independent Training Company who run Practical Wall and Floor Tiling Courses along with training in related subjects for the UK’s Traders, Retail Staff, Distributors and DIY Enthusiasts.P.I.T.T is ran by an experienced team who you can trust to provide the highest level of short training courses available.
PITT is run by an experienced team who you can trust to provide the highest level of tiling courses and plumbing courses available.
www.professional-itt.com/ - 34k - Cached - Similar pages

Tiling Courses, Tiling Course, Wall Tiling Courses, Tiling

Tiling Courses and Plumbing Courses at Professional-itt training, tiling courses, pitt. tiling courses · tiling course tiling courses uk
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[ More results from www.professional-itt.com ]

TileForums.com (Powered by Invision Power Board)

No New Posts, PITT Tiling and Plumbing Courses - feedback and comments Please post your comments about the PITT Course you joined here. Post all other PITT
www.tileforums.com/ - 44k - Cached - Similar pages

DIY courses for women: iVillage

PITT tiling and plumbing courses PITT runs specialist two-day weekend courses for women. The unique selling point lies in its free 24-hour helpline
www.ivillage.co.uk/print/0,,696778,00.html - 12k - Cached - Similar pages

Tiling courses in the UK

Find Tiling courses in the UK in the UK from Courses Plus, offering a massive Area: All Areas,. Supplier: P.I.T.T Tiling Courses for All Tilers
www.coursesplus.co.uk/tiling-c1108_a-region_allareas.php - 18k - Cached - Similar pages

Tiling courses

Tiling courses in the UK. Find Tiling courses in the UK from Courses Plus, Area: All Areas,. Supplier: P.I.T.T Tiling Courses for All Tilers
www.coursesplus.co.uk/tiling-c1108-3.php - 22k - Cached - Similar pages

Help Me - Tilers Forum | Tiling Advice | Tile Forums

DIY can save you £££s

PITT offers comprehensive tiling and plumbing courses to complete novices and those with existing skills. Lasting from two to 10 days, the courses include
www.sqftmag.com/website/property_and_style_guides/diy-can-save-you-pounds/index.html - 10k - Cached - Similar pages

Floor: See what people are saying right now on Technorati

PITT tiling courses Welcome to the UK’s leading provider of tiling courses, PITT call anytime on 01782 566166 We are an Independent Training Company…
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tiling tools , tilers tools , tiling trowels , tilers trowels

Our parent company professional-itt has a range of tiling courses and plumbing courses if you are interested in Tiling PITT Tile drill guide kit
www.tools4tilers.co.uk/ - 120k - Cached - Similar pages
Products In Tiling Training Courses (Total Products 8, Showing: 1 -> 8) . Tiling PITT Tile drill guide kit · Tiling PITT Tile drill guide kit
www.tools4tilers.co.uk/section.php?xSec=9 - 29k - Cached - Similar pages

DIYnot.com > View topic > tileing

I did a course at PITT have a look at there tile forum and see what you think. The web is www.tileforums.com. Hope this helps Ty icon_biggrin.gif
www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11056 - 34k - Cached - Similar pages

Membership Registration Page

PITT have also developed Trades-Direct.co.uk - an online store with a Or for ceramic tiling courses and plumbing courses visit www.professional-itt.com
www.place4.co.uk/afilprog/shop/aboutplace4.asp - 6k - Cached - Similar pages

TileForums.com -> How Quickly…

Therefore after tiling my downstairs toilet in mosaic tiles a few months previous and loving it i naturally progressed to tiling. One P.I.T.T. course and
www.tileforums.com/index.php?showtopic=581&st=10 - 77k - Cached - Similar pages

Armed Forces resettlement education courses, jobs for UK Services

We have also reviewed a number of Plastering courses and Tiling courses finding a P.I.T.T is ran by an experienced team who you can trust to provide the
www.questonline.co.uk/questsearch/view/full/102 - 190k - Cached - Similar pages

Background on the Hexagonal Honeycomb conjecture In 1994, D

Let T be a tile of unit area such that the plane may be tiled by congruent Roger Cooke, The History of Mathematics, A Brief Course, John Wiley and Sons.
www.math.pitt.edu/~thales/kepler98/honey/hexagonHistory.html - 15k - Cached - Similar pages

Homebuilding & Renovating Online

One such course is run by Professional Independent Training Techniques (PITT) who are holding courses aimed at helping people to improve their DIY tiling
www.homebuilding.co.uk/Product.Features.asp?Action=View&ID=161 - 27k - Cached - Similar pages

tiling courses

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 12:19 am

One such course is run by Professional Independent Training Techniques (PITT) who are holding courses aimed at helping people to improve their DIY tiling
www.homebuilding.co.uk/Product.Features.asp?Action=View&ID=161 - 27k - Cached - Similar pages
 

Learn How to Tile

DIY should be fun, save you money otherwise spent on hiring professionals and, overall, satisfying — in theory. Sadly, this is not always the case. However, there are plenty of courses out there aimed at helping all aspiring DIYers.

One such course is run by Professional Independent Training Techniques (PITT) who are holding courses aimed at helping people to improve their DIY tiling skills, or at those wishing to get back into the trade, with exclusive tiling courses — open to both complete novices and to those with existing skills.

The courses take place in Stoke-on-Trent and last from one to ten days. The useful topics covered include: Practical Wall and Floor Tiling; Tiling Refresher Course; DIY Tiling for Women Only; and a One Day Taster Course. Prices for the courses range from £95 to £2,400, with dates being offered throughout the year.

For more information on the courses visit www.professional-itt.com or to reserve a space on the course, call the booking line on 01782 566166.

tiling courses

DIY courses for women

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 12:12 am
DIY courses for women

PITT tiling and plumbing courses PITT runs specialist two-day weekend courses for women. The unique selling point lies in its free 24-hour helpline
www.ivillage.co.uk/print/0,,696778,00.html - 12k - Cached - Similar pages

 

Sisters are doing it for themselves with courses around the UK on how to plaster and plumb, tile and tool-handle

Tired of tradesmen’s extortionate rates for simple household jobs? Or worse still, will your other half just not finish a job he started six months ago? Help is at hand when it comes to DIY. Today’s women are literally doing it themselves with women-friendly and women-only courses throughout the UK. There’s a course to suit everyone - during the day, in the evening, even specially tailored weekends with accommodation thrown in. So get busy with the brushes and serious with the sanding - here’s our guide to the best courses.

PITT tiling and plumbing courses
PITT runs specialist two-day weekend courses for women. The unique selling point lies in its free 24-hour helpline available to all students after the course finishes. If tricky tiling or plumbing situations trip you up, you can phone the experts.

The tiling course covers:

 

  • Tile types and cutting
  • Setting out, adhesive, fixing, tools
  • Grouts, sealants and finishing.

 

And the plumbing course covers:

 

  • Fittings, domestic systems and pipes
  • Soldering, fitting radiators, installing dishwashers and washing machines
  • Replacing tap washers, fitting vales and maintaining systems.

Dates are determined by demand and content can be flexible. Some students choose to skip the basics and go straight to the five-day intensive. After completing the plumbing course, one of the girls in the PITT office installed her own bathroom - saving a fortune and not a builder’s bum in sight. A weekend course including one overnight, tea, coffee and lunch costs £245.

 

Call Sharon or Angela, 7 days a week 8am to 9pm 01782 566 166
PITT (Professional Independent Training Techniques)
62 Brick Kiln Lane
Parkhouse Ind Est
Newcastle-under-Lyme
Staffordshire
ST5 7AS
Or an online tour is available via the website: www.professional-itt.com

 

tiling courses

November 6, 2006

Tiling Courses

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 11:30 pm

Tiling As A Career, Advice Please

Ok guys I am looking for some sound advice from the pro’s. I am a 42yr old engineer who is racked off with the industry big time. I am contemplating a career change into the tiling world. I have quite a bit of experience of DIY (DON’T LAUGH) tiling. I like to do a good job, with quality finishes etc. Can anyone give me some advice as to the pros and cons of doing this for a living.
I need to earn about 35k a year and I don’t mind working hard for it. Is this achieveable. I will be grateful for any info and advice you may have. Thanks.
Am sure the other lads will respond to this Alan…

Jase

click here for tiling and plumbing courses

or call anytime on 01782 566 166

I have been a full time tiler now since August. I was trained by the guys at PITT and if you are seriously thinking of tiling for a living, I would strongly recommend that you go on one of the PITT courses first.
Doing as DIY and doing as a living are very different.
If you need to earn £35,000, I would recommend that you get some contacts first that can sort you out some work. It obviously takes time to build a business and start earning serious money, unless someone can help you out or at least point you in the right direction.
Good luck wink.gif
I did the PITT course and thought it was very worthwhile. The setting out that is taught there is excellent and in my opinion is one of the most important parts of tiling along with product selection. Get that wrong and your in for a hard job. I went there because the colleges and goverment have made it almost impossible for anyone over 30 to train in building trades in Scotland.

I would think your salary demands would be on the high side to start off with but there are those with experience and speed who can make more than that unfotunately I am not in that category sad.gif

Hi Alan,
I did the PITT course last Sept at the age of 45 and it set me on my way. Like you I had loads of DIY experience but needed something to tie it all together. The PITT course gave me all this including business development ideas and continuous ongoing technical support. I’ve been self employed for over 4 months now only wish I’d done it years ago. Going back next week to do the plumbing course so I can do complete bathrooms. Regarding your required income, if you get into supplying tiles and adhesives for your customers you can make a fair income on this side alone but as Dale T said you need to network and develop contacts.

The fact that you take pride in your work will always work in your favour long term and quality is one thing you never have to apologise for. It is hard work at times but it’s worth it.
Good luck smile.gif

For starters you need to be in good shape. You are 42 and thats still young but your getting older too? lol The only down fall I see in tiling is that we are self employed and there is no retirement no 401k no nothing. You need to learn how to handle your income. If you can’t save atleast 10 percent of your earnings after paying everything out, then you are doing something wrong.
Number 2 get a laborer. Let them move the tile, mix the mud, pay them well and you will keep good help and it will save on your body at the end of the day, I am a female almost 50 and I can keep up with the best of them. I can still sling 60 pound bags of thin set a pallet at a time on larger jobs. Take care of yourself and practice safety.
One thing I am bad at is learning to give my self a day off. Decsipline your self and just say I am not working weekends or what ever you chose. Tiling can be very presurus at times because you can hold up other trades.
and talk as little as possible to the customers especially about another trades work. It will bite you in the butt. Be creative and try not to let the customers make your job the never ending job. They will try to make you there personal tilesetter and you can start to lose money by them asking you to do this and do that. I always tell them I will try to do it after I am finished with this job first. It happens to me all the time. Ho’w that for advise? laugh.gif I can go on now just ask the Pitt crew. wink.gif
Thanks to you all for the advice it is very much appreciated. If you think of anything else please keep it coming. I hope life treats you all well.
[URL=http://www.professional-itt.com]click here for tiling and plumbing courses[/URL]
or call anytime on 01782 566 166
Hi
I will have been tiling on my own for 2 years this august, i did a year at college wall and floor tiling but if i had of known about PITT courses i would have done one of those, to tell the truth I find it hard work, harder than i thought i would, it is hard physically although i do enjoy that but also i find it hard to make decent money as tiling is very time consuming, i am getting quicker but i prefer to do thing correct, setting out correct etc and all your preperation takes time. Also i feel other trades look down at you and you dont get the respect of say a plumber or a sparky, basically people say anyone can tile, which as a tiler you know is not true because so much goes into it, it can be very frustrating. If you are self employed there is quoting, buying materials, advertising, public liability insurance, new tools, van costs, accountants, unpaid holidays which all add up and virtually wipe out any of my profits. Plus side no boss and the satisfaction of doing a good job, but is that worth all the hassle!!!!!!!!!
paul not sure what you mean by that question about tile cut? but when i set out for any job i normally always center the walls to get even cuts both sides and center the window for even cuts both sides of the window as that is your focal point, i also know what cuts ive got around the bath and vanity units,and up the side and top of a door so i do know most of my cuts, i also always use battens and spacers. Is that what you meant??
no but you have answered my question, centering is not the way to set out in most cases. dont worry thats the college way but not the BS standard
Hi Bernie
You ask if it’s worth it!! Latest job is a full rip out (inc ALL plaster) and refit of wallboard, tiles, bathroom suite etc. It has beena pain from the off. Customer is fab but talks all day slowing me down. I cut through a cable that wss buried in wall but not in conduit (blew main elec company fuse!!! 3 hrs lost mad.gif ). Had a blocked gait valve on cold water tank (almost half a day lost mad.gif mad.gif ). Cutting contiboard today and lsot vision in left eye (very blurred most of the day - think it was affected by fine dust particles - very slow day not much achieved sad.gif ) Got a problem trying to fix old shower mixer as the backnuts sit in the tile body!!

With all the above problems I know that the bathroom will look fab and perform beyond customers expectations and that makes EVERYTHING worth it and I wouldn’t do anything else. smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif

Mike, you would get more work done if you were not stopping off at PITT every 5 mins for free food and drink laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif
I’m so slow I can’t afford to buy snapping laugh.gif but I have done loads of work within a five minute drive of Pitt - wierd really!!

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