Tiling News

The latest news for tilers and the tiling industry


January 30, 2007

Free Tiling Help

Filed under: Tiling courses, General, Wall and Floor Tiling — admin2 @ 10:34 pm

Tileforums, free to view as a guest, and also free to join.

Tile Forums 

 

January 29, 2007

Tile Association Request Information

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 10:30 pm

PITT and Trades Direct allows you to ask questions or for more information on our tiling association send to

pta@professional-itt.com 

PTA 

 

The Best Sevice from Trades Direct

Filed under: Tile Adhesive — admin2 @ 10:22 pm

NOT A DELEGATE COMMENT BUT STILL WORTH A MENTION
The trades direct part of our business is just as professional.

Thanks for the reply. after taking a look at Trades Direct I realised that they (and of course PITT) are 20 minutes down the road from me!

I popped in yesterday and would like to say a big thanks to all there, but especially Phil who took over half an hour to sort me out (that’s a compliment!!!!)

Me being a humble DIYer looking to buy some ‘decent’ products, with a piece of my cut stone in hand seeking advice was met by (at one point) 4 of the PITT Professionals, taken into their workshop, during their lunch break (sorry about that) and then given the considered opinions on the best products that would most suit my needs.

It would have been easy for them to just send me away (I haven’t even been on a course there and only discovered them a week or so back), or to have just sold me several expensive products, but gentlemen, you are a credit to your profession and I have no doubt having seen your set-up that your approach to training is equally professional. It was a pleasure being there listening to your advice, with Phil listing the individual products for me, and sending me away with the ’stage 1′ gear that I need.

What’s more, the ‘off the shelf’ price to me, a DIYer was £50 cheaper than a certain well known ‘big’ tile outlet, and their quote didn’t include sealers and the two trowels that I will need! All in all I can highly recommend the establishment. As requested, you name will be remembered and passed on by me whenever appropriate…..and if I make a pig’s ear of the job I will be looking for a half decent tiler to sort me out!! 

Jan 19 2007, 07:32 PM
Pilot Pete

Trades Direct

Thank You Pitt

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 10:20 pm

Hello All

Just a quick update to anyone who’s replied to any of my posts.

After numerous questions and quizzing, I decide the best thing to do was to visit PITT themselves, so this afternoon I drove for an hour to see them.

When I arrived, I was greeted at the door, and offered coffee  now that doesn’t happen when I go shopping 

I was greeted by Phil ( hello mate ) and taken into the treasure trove that is PITT’s stock warehouse
With no idea of what I actually wanted to buy, I spent the next 2 hours been talked through everything from which product, to how to apply it.
Phil helped me work out everything, except how to get my credit card out  at no point was anything pushed on me, unlike others who want to sell to you and make you dissapear, I asked about certain buying certain items, and he told me I wouldn’t need them, now any sales manager would S**T at that, push your ware on to the punter, but it was quite the opposite and it works, I came away with everything I needed to do the job, no silly extras or gimmicks, and I felt like I’d been truly looked after.

I know it always seem’s a bit dubious when you read posts like this, you tend to think it’s a relative or friend just helping to plug the site.
I can assure you 100% I have no affiliation with PITT, but what I can assure you is, that after just one visit it’s evident that this is a true proffesional business in every sense of the word.

I would expect this kind of service buying a million pound house…….not a £10 bag of grout, it’s so nice to be made welcome.

Paul…. You have truly set up a company that offers everything that a customer expects to receive, your staff are both polite and friendly and are clearly knowledgeable of their trade, I wish you all the luck in the world for the future, and don’t be suprised if I’m not pitching up for one of your courses in the future.

Phil…. A massive thank you for all the time you spent ensuring I got what I needed, I can’t really say enough without sounding like a fool, but I’m sure you know anyway, not only did you give me good advice, you saved me money, which is important to anyone, I can’t wait to get those silicone tools going  and she did want the chrome trims 

And finally thank’s to everyone who has taken the time to reply to my posts, all your help is welcome, and you ain’t heard the last from me.

Best wishes to all
Jed. Jan 27 2007, 11:24 PM

Glad I could help Jed, hope the tiling goes well and I am sure youwill have fun with those silicon tools   .

Let us know how you do.
Phil Jan 28 2007, 08:58 PM

Well, it would be nice if all the guys out there that doubt PITT, made the same effort as Jed to find out for themselves what they are missing. They may well not be so quick to slag off a company that really does care about the tiling industry!!!!!!

Dale DWT Tiling & Bathrooms
Jan 28 2007, 11:46 PM
 

Totaly agree dale, nice 1 
TANKER Jan 29 2007, 10:06 PM
http://www.trades-direct.co.uk

PITT Ltd 

January 26, 2007

Restoring Flagstone (slate) Floor

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 2:43 pm
Hi Ian/Frank,

It was a great course that I attended in October only wish I had attended sooner would have saved me a lot of hassle on a previous job.

Well I have purchased a floor scrubber and wet vac and loads of pads the guy on ebay must have been delighted. I have a 140 year old flagstone floor that needs stripped back and I need to patch other areas with new flag, however the old flagstone has gone through every treatment probably known to man. I know the quarry where it originated and have flagstone in my own house over the years it would have had treatmens such as sour milk, burnt linseed oil, boot polish more linseed and they have even managed to use gloss pint where the grout lines should be and there is plaster/cement residue in some parts. The flagstones are laid on the traditional sand substrate and I will not be disturbing them from that.

So my questions are:

A: What should I use to remove paint?

B: What should I use to remove Cement/plaster residue?

C: What should I use to remove linseed etc ?

D: What colour pad should I be using?

My thoughts were to use either the Heavy Duty Acid Cleaner or Phosphoric Acid Cleaner for the cement/plaster and the use the 1 & 2 Deep Clean for the linseed. For sealing I was going to offer the customer Sealer Choice Gold or Enrich n Seal depending on the finish she wants. The area is 45m2 with a further 120m2 at a later date.

I have charged £4,200 for part one and that includeds putting down 5m2 of new slate would you say that is about right cost as I am going to price for the other 120m2 after I have completed part 1.

I hope you can help,

Cheers,

Gary

Highland Tilers

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Hi Gary,

Ok be careful here.

First of all, with all that gunk and paint, oil etc, you are really going to need a stripper.

I would first do a couple of tests to see which is the most effective way to go but you could try first giving the floor a deep clean with either Heavy Duty Tile & Grout Cleaner or 1&2 deep clean, they are really interchangeable, the latter being more suited for larger areas as it is more economical.

personally I would use a nylon brush head on the machine for a textured stone, rather than a pad as the bristles will get into the texture easier as well as the grout joints. If you have to use a pad go for a coarse one, green/black.

Rinse and wet vac it up and see what you are left with - it will have removed the build up of surface grime but is unlikely to have done anything to touch paint or linseed oil.

The cement and plaster may have been removed in the process, purely due to the fact that it is likely that it was on top of the grime and so can come away at the same time during the scrubbing, if not then you are correct, try a solution of Phosphoric Acid Cleaner where ever needed. (test for acid sensitivity of the stone - most sandstones are ok but occasionally ou can get a reaction/etching)

To make any headway on the Oil and to remove the paint you will need to use Sealer and Adhesive Remover:

Apply neat and leave to dwell for 30 to 40 minutes (protect any stained woodwork or painted surfaces nearby) then scrub as for Heavy Duty, use a floor squeegee to help remove the residue to where you can mop it up then rinse well with clean water, make another pass with your machine and the brushes to make sure you agitate any remaining Sealer and Adhesive remover solution wet vac up and quite possibly rinse again.

Then let it dry and see what you have got.

Couple of points:

You may find that going straight to the Sealer and Adhesive remover stage works and there is no need to use Heavy Duty First - hence it is wise to conduct a test both ways.

It may not be possible to totally remove the Linseed - so don’t make that promise.- this need not be a problem, if when dry the look is so dramatically clean compared the before and the client likes it.

If a significant amount of Linseed or other contaminant remains in the stone, then this may preclude the use of Enrich n Seal as it may inhibit the penetration of the sealer, causing it to sit high and remain on the surface - again you would need to conduct a test to satisfy your self that it will work - remember to pay close attention to the removal of surplus sealer before it dries.

With regard to your pricing; if I read your message correctly, you are charging (or have charged? - which suggests you have done some of this work??) £4,200 for 45m2 of cleaning/stripping and sealing including 5m2 of new stone installation

if we said £200 was for the new stone? that leaves £4,000 for the clean & Seal

that is £88.88 per m2!

Can I come and work with you?

Seriously, it is hard to advise as it depends on where you live and what your customers are willing to pay etc. It is a specialist job and one that takes time and care so sure it commands a premium for the right skills

I have not worked out how much sealer you will need and of course the cost of that is built into your figure I’m sure.

Coverage will depend on how porous the stone ends up after treatment (how much linseed etc remains) but you could work on 15 to 20 m2 per litre per coat for Either Sealer’s Choice or Seal & Finish Low Sheen, work on 20 to 30 for Enrich n Seal.

I would guess (again - test) that you may get a way with 1 to 2 coats of Enrich n Seal, or 2 to 3 coats of Sealer’s Choice. If you took the Seal & Finish Option then maybe 3.

Why Seal & Finish? it is a coating sealer and often on sandstone is the preferred way to go as is does a better job of filling up the surface texture than an impregnator, but conversely, it will wear much faster and need regular reapplication (good news for you!, less so for the client) if the area is a high traffic one and the wear is an issue then stick to the impregnators.

hope that helped

Ian

——————–

Celtex Agencies, European Agents for Aqua Mix Inc Products available here:
http://www.trades-direct.co.uk
Water -based sealers, cleaners and problem solvers
——————————————————
Having just re-read you post Gary, I missed the fact that this flagstone was slate - I had assumed it was sandstone - hence my reference to seal & Finish Low Sheen.

However I have checked through and the rest is all still relevant

Cheers

Ian

——————–

Celtex Agencies, European Agents for Aqua Mix Inc Products available here:
http://www.trades-direct.co.uk
Water -based sealers, cleaners and problem solvers
—————————————————-
Hi Ian,

Thanks for the reply. A couple of points 1. You said I need a stripper are you talking about the Aquamix products or a paint stripper? 2. You said that some of the linseed may still be held in the slate, if I were to use enrich n seal would it give the slate the same apperance ie dark or would it be patchy where it has not been absorbed due to the linseed. If this was the case would I better using Sealers Choice.

On the price customer has paid deposit up front 1/3 and she now wants 5 wetrooms all with undertile heating and if we are succesful with the first slate job she wants another 120m2 stripped back.

I have another job coming up and is Honed Brazilian Slate that has been sealed with HG Impregnator but there seems to be marks sealed into the slate. Would I use Seal and Adhesive remover on this job as well. She is not keen on the enrich n seal finish so I was going to use selaers choice.

And finally I have another job concernng a Victorian tiled floor that needs cleaned back I take it I could use Heavy Duty or 1 &2 Deep cleaner and seal with Sealers Choice.

Sorry for all the questions but this side of the business seems to be taking of and I want to get it right from the start.

Cheers,

Gary

Highland Tilers

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January 24, 2007

Large Tile/worrying Times, Lipping here and there.

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 9:15 pm
In response to two earlier posts today: Worrying times and Large tiles.

What are your opinions on this senario?

Just (eventualy) finishing a job: Large format tiles, onto ply-overlined floor which for the most part is nice and level.

Now I found myself laying my adhesive as normal, but then having to lift and back butter ( not quite dot and dab )certain tiles to avoid lipping, and to achieve good 100% coverage, obviosly caused by the floor being slighly uneven in parts, mainly where the ply boards meet.

Is this something you guys come accross frequently?

Or do you make sure the floor is 100% perfect first?

Do you sometimes have to build up the adhesive in parts?

If so how?

Does your work get messy as the adhesive oozes out between the joints?

Any thoughts welcome cheers stu.

—————————————-
What size are the tiles??

If large format what trowel were you using and type of adhesive…

The answer seems to me to be a large format trowel see TD and ptb adhesive..

Jase

——————————
i am doing 600×600x22 marble on floors and walls, am worried a bit about them falling off but i am going to mechanically fix them as well just to be on the safe side
———————————————————————–
wall

what is the substrate.. if plaster board or plaster dont even start..

Jase

————————–
Jase,

Is there a substrate (walls)
that sort of weight would be safe

————————————-
Sorry Jase, don’t quite follow? What does TD mean? Got pourable thick bed…?

Using std thick bed solid bed floor trowl.

Bagged rapid set with flexi additive.

Tiles are around 450mm sq

Dunlop Natural Stone Adhesive with Porcel Bond

Filed under: Tile Adhesive — admin2 @ 1:18 am

Dunlop. Large Format. & Natural Stone Tile Adhesive. These products contain Porcel Bond technology - Use Dunlop Floor & Wall Tile Adhesive or Dunlop Tile on wood rapid.

Best price to the trade or public.

The only company with FREE yes FREE help, tips and advice on tiling installations.

Trades Direct    

Filed under: Tile Adhesive — admin2 @ 1:12 am

The BAL and Dunlop brands from Building Adhesives Ltd are the market leaders in tile adhesives, grouts and sealants. BAL offers the best products in the tiling industry.

Why not touch base with your leading tile adhesive and grout supplier here at the best on line store. And next day delivery anywhere on the UK mainland.

Trades Direct

Tiling a Car Showroom

Filed under: Tile Adhesive — admin2 @ 12:11 am
Specially designed for use in motor showrooms, this adhesive is formulated to withstand heavy loading and trafficking. Suitable for use with large format tiles onto most standard bases such as concrete, cement: sand screeds.

* rapid-setting
* water/frost resistant
* high bond strength
* interior / exterior

(1 unit = 25Kg bag) ** colour = GREY

http://www.trades-direct.co.uk/modules/sho…ts.asp?catid=22

Attached Image
Attached Image

BAL Mosaic Fix Tile Adhesive

Filed under: Tile Adhesive — admin2 @ 12:08 am
A bright white, water and frost-resistant, cementitious wall and floor tile adhesive specially formulated for fixing mosaic tiles including glass mosaics. It is also suitable for fixing ceramic wall and floor tiles, metal or glass tiles, marble, terazzo, and natural stone in interior and exterior locations. Suitable for use in swimming pools.

* for fixing all mosaics including glass
* water / frost resistant
* suitable for swimming pools
* non-slip
* interior/exterior
* suitable for most surfaces

(1 unit = 20Kg bag), colour= bright white

click here http://www.trades-direct.co.uk/modules/sho…ts.asp?catid=22

Attached Image
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——————–

tiling course, tiling courses, tiling training courses, plumbing courses, plumbing course, tiling tools, adhesive and grout courses.

Click links below for ceramic tiling and plumbing courses/ all your trade tool requirements.

Click to find a tiler

Click for Tiling courses

Click Tiling Tools

Worrying Times, Dot and Dab

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 12:00 am
Was asked by a plumber today if we ever dot and dab tiles in a shower area. After I’d picked myself off the floor I told him never. He says the reason he asked is that tilers are going back to that method to combat the problems faced by uneven walls.

What is going on in the world?

———————————–
just goes to show the standard out there
———————————————
There are loads of tilers out there that still use dot n dab method. And they use it because they either can’t be a*sed sorting the wall out or don’t know how to sort the wall out rolleyes.gif
——————————————————
Reassuring that you know better isn’t it wink.gif
—————————————————————-
Just so glad I trained at PITT. Their training is done to the standard not jst someones opinion, so learn what you need to know at the PITT Centre where professional or DIY can be acheived to perfection.

January 23, 2007

Vitrified Or Fully Vitrified, What does it mean ?

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 11:54 pm

In all what follows, I am talking only about clay manufactured tiles. Will not talk about any natural stone ones.

First, lets clasify a bit the tiles. From manufacturing point of view, they are: hand made; extruded; ram (wet)pressed and dry pressed tiles.

From the texture, properties point of view: porous (wall) tiles; low porosity (semi-vitrified) gress tile; advanced vitrified floor tile (as the Italian Porcelanatto); fully vitrified porcelain tile.

Any of the above, are manufactured of a mixture of 50-65% clay, 20-25% Silica, 10-15% Feldspar; Calcite and additives.
All will go through a firing process of at least 1050 dgr.C. or higher.

During the firing process, series of physical and chemical reactions take place. All the physical modifications are reversible, but most of the chemical reactions are unreversibil.

Plasticity of the clay: is given mainly by the finesse of the clay\’s granules; nature of the clay; impurities. Ball Clay is an impurified kaolin. Kaolin is a variety of white clay. Is whitter and cleaner if remained on its forming site. If transported away (generally from mountains in valleys) by rain waters, will become a ball clay by grinding to finer in tranport and gaining impurities (mineral salts, iron and other metal salts). A pure kaolin will be always less plastic than a ball clay. As higher the alumina content of a clay, the clay will be a higher firing one. The pure chemical component of a clay, better to say, its activ component is called kaolinit:
Al2O3.2SiO2.2H2O

The wet formed tile, have a water content made up by two categories of water: when drying, eliminates its water content which is replaced (as volume) by shrinkage of the tile. After a wile, water still is eliminated but the body does not shrink any more, the water\’s place is taken over by pors forming porosity. Dry pressed tiles have practically no drying shrinkage. Water content of the formed tiles. is 5-6.5% which will generate porosity by drying process.

During firing, function to temperature and heat work, are taking place the above mentioned physical and chemical modifications, as follows (just a short sketch):
The heat is on and the temperature is rising in the kiln. Up till about 200 dgr.C ceramic items are eliminating all of their physical remaining moisture;
200-450 dgr.C no reactions take place. At this stage, if the firing is stoped, the clay mixed with water, will be plastic again, as it was before;
450-573dgr.C starts elimination (desintegration) of organic compounds. They burn and will eliminate in form of carbon dioxide and water vapors. Same, from 450 starts the chemical reaction of eliminating the chemically bound water content in the clay particles. Kaolinit, by eliminating its two water molecules, will transform in so called metakaolinite:
Al2O3.2SiO2.2H2O —> Al2O3.2SiO2 + 2H2O

Metakaolinit is no more plastic and conferes more strength to the clay, but not much and makes it brittle at this stage.

The 573 dgr.C temperature is called \”Quartz Point\”. It is a very important stage of the firing, due to structural modifications of the silicon content. The modification is from the variety of \”crystobalit\” to \”tridimit\”. This modification, takes place with a quite large volume modification as well, so, items are in danger of cracking. To avoid this happen, this point will be past very slowly, specially if the used clays are rich in crystobalit content.
573-900 dgr.C are taking place reactions with no great importance.

From 900dgr.C and up, the ceramic mixture starts to form melting points first, areas later. Acting flux for this is the feldspar content wich is a flux mineralizator. That means, will melt itself and then will disolve other components in its liquide mass. During the reactions, some born components are in gas form and will be eliminated as firing gases. Other components, melting together by forming eutectics (melting points of 2-3-4 component mixture) will form the final ceramic body. Melted litle areas of the ceramic body, will hold the tile together as a whole and will generate strength. By all these reactions, volume modifications take place. Formed gases by elimination, will leave a free space. If these spaces remain empty, this will form the porosity of the body. More spaces are filled with melted mass, more vitrified the body is and its volume will decrease acordingly (firing shrinkage).

Porcelain tile, have a total vitrified body, their porosity being under 0.1%. This fact does not mean that the whole tile has been melted, but it means that during the firing, was generated enough melted mass, to be able to fill all the empty spaces in between the particles.

Guys, in this telegraphic manner I hope to clarify majority of your questions. Will answer with pleasure to any further inquires. Just ask John to pick me up.

All the best to all of you and excuse my English
Uri Schwartzberger

P.S. The tile saw dust feels muddy due to its finesse. No plastic as clay (does not bond) due to the metakaolinit (see above).
Tile Forums

Dunlop waterproof tanking kit (MULTIBUY 10 units)

Filed under: Tile Adhesive — admin2 @ 11:43 pm

*** SPECIAL MULTIBUY OFFER - 10 UNITS ***

Buy a 10 unit consignment of Dunlop waterproof tanking kit at a price of £219.00 .Delivery is still at our great price of £6.00! This is a saving of approximately 30% over our normal individual price. (our normal price is £30.90, so at 10 units = £309.00) .. we bring you a massive saving!!

NB There is a 2-3 day delivery with this item.

A complete tanking kit to waterproof one domestic shower prior to fixing ceramic tiles.

Easy and quick to apply. Contains everyting you need - primer, coating and tape. Ensures a watertight barrier prior to tiling. Protects water sensitive backgrounds such as plaster, wall angles, corners pipes and structural fixtures. Suitable for concrete, cement: sand rendering, plaster, plasterboard and timber boards.

(10 units of 4Kg bucket kit)

Price : £219.00
 

OFFER ends 26th January 2007

Trades Direct 

 

Mosaic Tiling

Filed under: General — admin2 @ 12:18 pm

This was a real fiddly one, mosaic travertine floor and walls with boxing as well.user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

and a natural terracotta floor, and i tell ya i aint doing another for a while. Needed 6 coats of sealant then waxing.

By Tiler from

Place4trades

Tips For Slate Tiles, How?

Filed under: Tiling courses — admin2 @ 11:50 am
Tips from the forum.

“1 sort into thickness
2 seal all tiles ( one coat ?)
3 lay tiles
4 grout
5 seal again”

“All i might do is give it a clean down before the 2nd coat of sealant, just so you don’t trap any residue or grout bloom you may have missed under the sealant coat, just a general cleaner from the same range as the sealer you use”

“seal the tiles before you lay is best it all depends on how clean you work. what colour grout are they having because that will determine what colour adhesive you should use. as for what type of adhesive you should use you can use a standard adhesive but if you want to overshoot use a single part flex “

” you only need to seal the face of the tiles. As they are slate tiles sort them out into three different piles by thickness. You lay the thicker ones first then bed out the others to the same height as the previous ones. As for the painted area score diagonally it at 50mm centres in both directions. Use a temperary sealer on the tiles. You dont need to prime the floor but clean the floor wher the paint is and use a single part flexible adhesive so it will bond to the exsisting tiles.”

“Seal first
HG impregnator will make the tiles darken Fila impregnator will leave them a more natural colour

Re the levels if your customer wants the tiles graded and therefore a flat floor then make sure you charge extra as it will take a lot longer but if they want the Rustic look then put them down as they come but if there are any trip hazzards then you can knock the edge off with a bolster chisel

so re cap

seal
lay the tiles
seal
grout
seal
go home

i also give the customer the option if they dont like a perticular tile to tell me before i grout and i will swop it for another but only before i grout any tiles changed after i charge extra for

wet cut only but i score on dry cutter first as it helps give a neat cut”

“and scoring first gives you a line to cut on the wet cutter”

“you can cut them dry. and if your worried take your makita and a wet sponge at the same time. it will be brittle until you seal them “

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